Interesting signs in S.F.

-
Aside from the vexing flight the entry into San Francisco was one of the most painless ones I've ever had coming from abroad. Customs inspectors are somewhat suspicious upon seeing (black?)American individuals as opposed to obnoxious American families returning from vacation. Because as every common Yank knows, there's really no cause to have a passport.

San Francisco's downtown is infected by some of the ugliest, scuzziest, sleaziest, nastiest, lost, criminal and drug addled and mentally fucked desperate souls in the nation. Scary place

San Francisco is one of those cities which cures any man of his boredom. There's so much and so many diverse things to do from free to cheap to luxurious. And it is a pretty city. Except for downtown. San Francisco's downtown is dominated--infected!--by some of the ugliest, scuzziest, sleaziest, nastiest, lost, criminal and drug addled and mentally fucked desperate souls in the nation. Scary place. Like Los Angeles' but at least L.A.'s downtrodden are more or less concentrated on Skid Row.


Here are some interesting things I saw downtown:

what a positively cheeky sign for a positively positive sounding business: Good Hotel "Smile - it increases your face value"

                                                             Just how 'tolerant' and open-minded are the locals? No skinny bitches swirling on poles or jiggling in wet T-shirts like in plastic Miami Beach (and everywhere else skinny bitches with titties are appreciated). No sir, here they want big, fat mama-mamas with more junk in the trunk and fat folds than any one man can handle. Touch the magic?

"Big & beautiful amateur contest. The more you weigh the more we pay! www.msclive.com. $500 1st Place. $250 2d Place. $100 3d Place"

It's an art gallery! It's a concert hall! No, ye of little imagination: It's the San Francisco Federal Bldg! 

Bureaucracy never looked so...gleaming or hip. Speaking of hip....

And here's one helluva petition: 

"Whereby on this day we able minded creators do hereby tell you, the Establishment: FUCK YOU IN THE MOUTH. WE'VE HAD ENOUGH OF YOUR BULLSHIT. Signed, Beings of Beauty" Oh those beatniks!

Read More

First half of manuscript done...finally!

-
Will spend the summer working on my memoirs. Tonight I completed editing a major portion of it.

Read More

Oasis Hostel (Pto Vallarta)

-

I've stayed in the Oasis Hostel many times before. In fact, it's the only hostel I've patronized when in Vallarta because, until a few months ago, it was the only hostel in town. I ought to have reviewed it last year because now I risk appearing vengeful. Oh well.

Owing to the new management, the Oasis is not the pleasant stay it used to be. Now the eldest son, Guillermo, has returned from his world travels to take over from his parents. Admirable. Unfortunately he runs it like "his" hostel as opposed to a hostel, foregoing the patience and flexibility of the father in lieu of a take-it-or-take-a-hike policy. There are so many "reglas" rules, rules, rules.


One morning a trio of German girls came down for breakfast (in time) and finding none asked for a coffee. Reasonable enough. Well! He not only refused them coffee but wondered if they thought they were in a hotel? Ouch. And of course came his customer service policy: Leave if you don't like it. They did. No less than three times he reminded me I could also leave; but with a virtually non-existent refund policy I stayed my black ass in place and argued the case. After all, I was there for the affordable, clean lodgings not his likability. Still, you don't stay in business for long with that range of hospitality. Especially not one dependent on foreign tourism. 

Thanks to the free market system there are now finally other options for hostelers: Vallarta Sun (H.I. affiliate) and Viva La Vida. From what guests have told me, the other places are still finding their footing but, y'know, no one likes to be dissed and what those hostels presently lack in facilities or space is compensated for by kindness and good vibes. That makes a difference.

he runs it like "his" hostel as opposed to a hostel. There are so many "reglas" rules, rules, rules

But, like a few of the other guests, I've been a repeat customer because, apart from Guillermo, the hostel has a lot going for it. There are mixed and female dorms, and single rooms. I've slept in two different dorm rooms and both times the beds were comfortable and the bed frames, not so squeaky. Each bed comes with linen, blanket, and padlock for the private locker. The rooms have effective ceiling fans. The cleaning lady does a great job keeping the place and rooms clean and clean-smelling, and also serves the breakfast which includes scrambled eggs and cafe de Olla (it's worth trying but I prefer Nescafe). There is hot water and three principal commons areas: TV lounge, the kitchen, rooftop terrace plus a front porch. Surprisingly, the Internet is still FREE (two computers) and Guillermo has yet to replace FREE water bottle refills (filtrated water) with water for sale. Super cool. Oasis is a muy sociable hostel where people actually do engage with their fellow travellers! Discussions over, say, breakfast are inclusive and a gas! I've made a few friends with whom I still email.    


Dorm rates run from $150 to180 pesos with a hundred peso key deposit.


It's not a bad hostel. But, hey, if you don't like it you can always leave.



Libramiento (Hwy) 222
Oasishostel.com

Read More

Seahorse cowboy (Vallarta)

-
I took this snapshot on my last night in town last week. Just as I snapped the shot, strolling home along the Malecon after a night of goodbye sex, a bartender friend and I spotted each other near simultaneously. I was supposed to stop by the bar and say Adios but wet sex over a wet martini isn't exactly a conflicting decision to make. Anywho, he hometown friends had just arrived for a visit, I was finally leaving, and so we headed back to his apt for a round of beers and cigars and laughs and pictures. I had a super great last night!

Back to the statue: It's an iconic landmark of Vallarta...probably the second most associated image with the city after the steeple of La Iglesia de Guadalupe (Our Lady of Guadalupe Church). The story of the statue is that of a child cowboy who travels from port to port on his seahorse. Sublime.

Read More

Vexing flight to San Francisco

-
Arrived to San Francisco this evening; so, yep, finally left Mexico and back in the States.


The plane was packed but otherwise comfortable save for the crying and screaming effing babies. Especially, the little brat princess who sat behind me.
I don't like children and I almost don't like parents half as much.  Airplane travel is not made for children; like riding shotgun in a truck or drinking Long Island iced teas. But that doesn't stop loving parents from boarding them on an airplane. 

I don't like children and I almost don't like parents half as much

After I realized the screaming child wasn't being told to stop kicking the back of my seat (traveling in a plane is not the time to ignore temper tantrums) I turned around and threatened her and abuela to keep those tiny legs still and cut that shit out. People are a trip!  

Read More

Such is my desk....

 

Read More

Catching some waves----and other curvaceous things....

 not me

 me!

Read More

How Mexicans smash recyclable cans. (Beats stomping on them one by one!)

 

Read More

JOURNAL: SEPTEMBER 18, 2009

-

Sept 18

   Had the most horrible sleeping experience last night I've ever suffered in a hostel--some cow of a woman was put in our room and, my god, did the bitch snore loud enough to remove paint from walls. It was so incredibly loud and persistent. Did not sound like a lady at all.

   Came to Chianti country to a village called Tavarnelle V.P. I knew I wanted to get out of Firenze! Am tired of those people and expensive prices for everything outside of the 99cent store. So far the move to the H.I. here has been tranquil. Big difference from Milan and Firenze.

Read More

MEMORIES. Ostello del Chianti (Tavarnelle Val de Pesa)

-
The Ostello del Chianti serves as the Hostel International in Tavarnelle Val di Pesa, the heart of the Chianti region. It's from where the world gets chianti wine. Chianti wine is typically the bottle we think of when imagining scenes in Italy: the bottle cased in straw and, when finished, serves as a candelabra!

I took a bus from Firenze (Florence) and it was not easy to discern which stop was mine. I approached the hostel from the back minus any useful signs. Thankfully the Sun had not yet set. Rounding a corner I came to the front entrance and met the receptionist. She was an extremely nice, helpful lady. 

Since it was not the high season, space was aplenty. For the first night or so I was in a dorm room with an old man who coughed HORRIBLY throughout the night (a cigarette smoker); when he was quiet a mosquito delighted in torturing my ear. The receptionist then moved me into an empty room and I slept peacefully!

The hostel is surrounded by countryside. Tranquil walks are a surplus. Along with linen and blankets, breakfast is included and, for anyone who has ever travelled in Italy, the rooms are equipped with plug-in mosquito repellents!  I didn't encounter any mosquitoes in Europe until I went to Italy (September).


It has wi-fi Internet access, a restaurant, a big commons room, hot showers (I love any place that has hot water & Internet!) and is wheelchair accessible. The customer service was molto bene and the facilities were super clean.

I don't really care for Florence but if ever I travel to central Italy again it will definitely be that I visit Chianti and lodge at Ostello del Chianti.

50028 Tavernelle Val di Pesa
Via Roma 137 ("via" means street)
+39 055.8050.265
ostello@ostellodelchianti.it
website

Read More

JOURNAL: SEPTEMBER 16, 2009

-

Sept 16

   Went to view the David statue yesterday at the Academie. It was truly impressive standing before and beneath the David. It's a thing of marvel. His height, the pose, the muscle is all immensely awesome; and while looking at is so freely I half expected the museum to permit groups of private audiences; but, no, museum-goers could gape or sketch for as long as opening hours permitted. 

   Went to Pisa to see the most famous tower in the world. The inclimate weather...tried to deter me but I'd already bought the train ticket yesterday (5.70€) and six euros is no small nothing.

   Gray clouds gave way to rain by the time we reached Pisa...the city could invest in some street signs but I found it. It was surreal seeing the odd edifice for the first time. It's actually leaning! completely discordant to everything else...upon seeing it I made my way back to the train station. (Am surprised by how well I avoided getting lost down any of the winding streets.)

----

   Starting to feel am spinning my wheels. Will return to Germany and Berlin for the remaining days of the trip...will be able to save and maintain money for the trip back [to America].

Read More

I felt no earthquake (Vallarta)

 -
No, no earthquake rumbled my little slice of paradise here in Pto Vallarta. Only Mexican tourists from Guadalajara and loud Banda music with bands in awful, clownish uniforms!

On Saturday night, though, I was called "Nigger!" by a truckload of (drunk) Mexicans. I gather they were drunk because getting smashed is the only apparent goal for every national who flocks here for Semana Santa (Holy Week); that and getting laid, I suppose.  At any rate, no translation was necessary. They shouted it in English.


Pto Vallarta: still free of earthquakes but not racism.

Read More

MEMORIES. Michelangelo & Mapplethorpe (Florence)

-

I saw one of the most recognizable wonders of the word: Michelangelo's David. Entrance to the museum cost 10€ and a line was already formed by the time I got there. But the line moved along at a nice pace and I

believe I was inside in under half an hour. There are many other things to see in the Galleria dell'Accademia but I, like most people in line, was really only there for viewing the David. For one thing, the statue is ENORMOUS. It is giant-sized and utterly amazing. The feet, the legs, hands, stomach, head, and,owing to the proportion of the masterpiece, even the tiny penis is big . Note: no fig leaf was in place. It is easy to see why this art piece stunned audiences then and now (probably due to the absence of a fig leaf). 

The David is majestic yet he is presented simply: a young man (with a healthy build, but nothing near 'muscular') with a steady gaze and slingshot over his shoulder. Granted, the piece wouldn't be as unforgettable if David were clothed but nothing grandiose is put forth by his lack of clothing.


During my visit a photography exhibit of American Robert Mapplethorpe was in house, La Perfezione nella Forma (Perfection without Form). Am familiar with Mapplethorpe and know most of his works more than border on the pornographic; this was the first exhibit of his pieces I had seen (outside of books). It was only the four photographs circling the base of the David that arrested my attention.


Whereas Michelangelo's David is white (marble), Mapplethorpe's subject is a black man. While there was nothing similar in the poses the compare and contrast of the two subjects was unavoidable. I thought that was a nice touch.

Galleria dell'Accademia
Florence, Italy
website

Read More

Help Angel Wings help Haiti

-
If you think I have adventures, then you don't know my old teammate and friend Carl Drew. He's loco about Life (and probably just a little plain loco, too). He likes climbing cold mountains and visiting dangerous parts of the world in bad weather. And now he has a partner in all of this craziness---his wife!

Last week Carl & Heather flew to Haiti to assist Angel Wings International. Of their own accord they went on a 7-day round-trip BUT have made the personal commitment to stay there until the two of them raise $5000 for the charity. Willing to be stuck in Haiti?! Told you they were loco!

Since arriving on March 31st the couple has raised more than half (all right!); but they still have less than halfway to go to completion.
Here's part of  today's email and snapshots from Carl: 

   "Over the past 3 days we have helped to treat over 100 patients.  Much of our time is spent worked alongside the medical staff as assistants and helping Angel Wings prepare for continual rotations of medical staff and support....Many of the NGO’s and Governmental agencies have begun to pull out of the country, and in the wake of the devastation remains cities of people who have no access to even the most basic of medical care."

Mr&Mrs Drew love helping out but they really don't want to be left stranded there. If interested in aiding their mission click Carl's fundraising site.

And to follow the development of Angel Wings International

http://angelwingsblog.wordpress.com/

Hope this helps, buddy!

Read More

JOURNAL: SEPTEMBER 14, 2009

-

13:25 

Sept 14

   [Milan] is a fancy, pricey city with a normalcy of the most elegantly dressed men I have ever seen. From young to old the men dressed for the very occassion [sic] of having stepped outside...And though basics are expensive--8€ drinks, 20€ covers, 30€ hostel dorms--shopping is surprisingly not....I would not pass up 10€ Italian leather shoes! Even if it meant discarding several clothes and stuff from my bag I was buying the dress shoes. Tried Campari soda. It's gross. 

   Now am en route to Florence. 

   13:20

   on time arrival to Verona.

   13:52

   on time departure

   17:25

   arrive to Bologna--finally; only for connection to Florence in an hour. 

   20:00

   found a hostel thanks to its strangely pinpoint walking direction; they mentioned almost every helpful mark minus the vagabond on the curb.

Read More

JOURNAL: SEPTEMBER 9, 2009

-
This is about my arrival to Italy. But first, throughout the diary entries and most of my original posts from Germany you may notice I reference "catching rides" or waiting for someone to confirm a ride. That's because of a German website called mitfahrgelegenheit.de that essentially functions as an electronic hitch-hiking site. People going to a destination advertise or look for other travellers heading the same way in order to cut costs be it gas money or to split the fare of a group train ticket. And I suppose there is the added benefit of having company on a long trip. It is a wonderful travelling tool.


Most of the people I met via mitfahrgelegenheit.de either spoke English or had a working knowledge of it and, man, that was oh so helpful.

I hitchhiked a ride from Innsbruck, Austria to Bolzano, Italy which I stupidly mistook to mean Bologna in Italian. Bolzano and Bologna are two very different cities with many, many miles between them. I was quite disappointed to see that I had wasted my time and money on the ride. In Bolzano I was rather glad to find no vacancies---though I can't help but wonder why any hostel would be full there----and boarded a night train outta there!


Initial plans were to travel to Florence but the overnight train ticket to Milan was far cheaper and faster so I bought it. Incidentally, the train had a long layover in Bologna....

Sept 9

   Caught a ride to Bolzano, which I mistook was non-English for Bologna, at nine. The one youth hostel was sold out so I continued on to the train station and mulled over my late night options; next departures were at 01:09 so I had roughly three hours to settle on a direction: Bologna, Florence, Milan or Venice? As the direct train to Florence was full--and a four-thirty arrival in Bologna, impractical--I chose Milan. Just like that my travels changed. Freedom is mobility. 

   02:37

   Verona. Long wait until connection to Milan. The employees' responses to my mild confusion is not helpful. Cinque meses, they reply but I know that cannot be right ("five months") so I get anxious, thinking I've only five minutes to catch the connection. And the track? Cinque meses, they reply...Trusting my comprehension of the train schedule I schlump to Track 7 and apprehensively board the deserted train for some shut-eye. An African woman  is just as uncertain (and damn if I can tell if she is speaking French, African dialect, Italian or English) but I do my best to nod and shake my head simpatico.

    04:00

    train dork awakes me to inform that 2d class is in the next car. Should I have been offended? Was just glad to be on the right train...Second Class is not a whole lot different than First Class. In fact, I sat where I sat because I thought it was 2d class.

   07:35 

   arrival to Milan. Milano!...Takes me a full goddamn hour to locate Tram 5 for the hostel--which turned out to be a hotel. 

    12:30

     shower and nap [Hotel San Tamoso]

    19:15

    bought a local SIM card. Had to produce identification. Stupid, bogus security crap.

Read More