Boys playing in the fountain

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It's hot in Guadalajara and where there are no public swimming pools the next best thing is...a public fountain! Stripped down to their undies - or not (see tall boy on the right) - and in they went.

Come to think of it, in all of my years in different parts of Mexico I've never seen a public city pool.
The CODE, a sports institution that trains amateur athletes for world competitions such as the Pan-Am Games, has a swimming pool but you have to join in order to use it.

June 2013

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Republik Bar (Guadalajara)

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There are no pubs in Mexico but try telling that to the proprietor of this, apparently, East German themed "underground" watering hole.

I've seen English-, Scottish-, Jamaican-, French-, French-Canadian-, and New York styled bars/pubs in Mexico but, unless the owner is said nationality, they're all the same on the inside! The service and atmosphere is unmistakably Mexican: loud cantina.
A gimmicky name does not a cultural experience make.

Anything to make a buck....

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Guest appearance at underwear store

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Made a guest appearance at the grand opening of  The Style Council in Guadalajara. Here I am mucking around with my camera. Is red my color...?

bulto is Spanish for bulge

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Blizzards in Guadalajara (Mexico)

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One of the things I most look forward to if I need ever be in Guadalajara is going to the indoor mall La Gran Plaza where they have a Dairy Queen in the food court. Like so many business icons of Americana, this company's hard times - or complete bust - back home has not meant the end-all death nail. Dairy Queen, along with Blockbuster Videos, Best Buy, Woolworth stores, still supply to a demand abroad (I remember meeting an English girl who thought Woolworth was a British company). I always wolf down a blizzard (or two) -- precisely because they are so hard to find! I allow myself to be a little gluttonous. McDonald's McFlurry and Burger King's BK Storm, both rip-offs of the Blizzard ice cream, just don't cut the mustard.

 the stuff of 

sweet childhood memories 

 testing out my new 

camera's zoom feature

I suddenly have a hunkering 

for a large milk shake

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See the animal in the picture?

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No doubt you are used to seeing trees inhabited by birds and squirrels and maybe even monkeys, but in Puerto Vallarta iguanas are common fauna. So signature are they to the area, the scary-looking, slithering reptiles are prominently named in arguably the most famous movie of the coastal city: John Houston's Night of the Iguana, starring Richard Burton and Eva Gardner.
  

 Can you spot it?

This is in a tree in the 

park by the Rio Cuale,not 

the mountainous jungles

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Sayulita (PICS)

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Sayulita is annually losing its 'unspoiled' appeal. Vacationers and retirees flock to pockets of tranquil paradise; developers and entrepreneurs set up businesses; and where there are tourists there are just as many local vendors.
Much of the dirt roads have been paved (usually cobblestones), the bridge built, and a large brick-and-mortar archway gate where once there was, well, nothing but dirt road. 

this 'city bus' travels between Pto Vallarta and Sayulita.

the ride lasts an hour -- but feels longer, owing to the steaming raggedy bus, the bus driver's blaring ranchero music, and your typically loud native fellow passengers. cost varies depending on where you catch it but is about $23mxn from Wal-mart/Marina stop

some ultra comfortable digs

when I first visited seven years ago there were 0 hostels;

now there are these 2 plus another!

still attracts loads of surfers and beach bums

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Missed my flight to Spain

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The day started well but didn't end that way. Awoke comfortably early for my flight back to Europe last week. Had time to do little errands like repair my wristwatch band and say good-bye to friends that morning. I even took the bus to the airport instead of a cab. 

The first leg of the flight from Puerto Vallarta to Mexico City was delayed, cutting down the three hour layover to two hours. No skin off my nose, I thought. Once in Mexico City I luxuriated in the layover time...browsing magazine stands, writing in my journal and people-watching. After two hours I went to the boarding gate to fly to Spain! Then I'm told I can't board without my Mexican tourist visa; iin fact, that I can't leave the country without it. Where is it? the airline people asked. I answer that I wasn't given one.

"When I rode the bus through Tijuana no one gave me any form to fill out."
"Then you must go get one now from Immigration," they said. "Hurry the plane is ready to leave."

That was as helpful as it got.

The unfortunate thing about being law abiding in foreign countries is that persons hired in gainful employment don't speak English whereas people on the street do

From here the mis-adventure snowballed. I had to run around the terminal(s) with my bags trying to get this fucking paper stamped. One Immigration desk was nearby but she only handed out the forms. I would have to exit and go to another official for the stamp -- and that office was not nearby. After getting permission from federal police to go out I made my way to this nondescript office where I'm requested to fill out another two forms  --and pay something or another. And the girl's English was atrocious. (The unfortunate thing about being law abiding in foreign countries is that persons hired in gainful employment don't speak English whereas people on the street do. You'd understandably mistake those you meet in nice, respective clean jobs for being educated and worldly but it's likely as not that, yes, they went to the rights schools but only because their parents had the right money. Their advancements come via cronyism and marriages -- just like in the old days. How can you be a college graduate and native North American without learning how to speak English, the most important language in the world?!) 

I didn't pay the fee. Couldn't tell if I was paying for a fine or a process fee and, by this point, my chance of getting on the plane was dashed. Fifteen minutes had passed already. The plane was gone. But what about the next one? I still had hope. As far as Aeromexico was concerned I wanted to change my flight and that - change - required I buy a new ticket -- at three times the price. "It's policy, senor." What about a flight for tomorrow or the day after? "It's policy, senor." Policy! Policy! Policy! Airlines are goddamn robber barons. Thus my return ticket was, as we say in German, kaput.

My luggage felt like baggage

For hours I languished in the airport, scheming a new game plan. But the going costs of flying abroad were astronomical. So...I figured I'd regroup at leisure: I'd take the bus back to Vallarta (because being in Mexico City is a ticking time-bomb) and unpack and resume travel in a week or, heck, maybe a month. Always look on the bright side.... It was an overnight bus ride on ETN, the most expensive coach line (see below post), whose comfort  I hoped would calm me down. It didn't and it wasn't comfortable. More, the apartment I'd just left was suddenly no longer available. Another guy who had earlier offered me to cheaply rent his spare room suddenly had to get his father's permission first. "Could I wait until July?" he wondered. Click. My luggage felt like baggage. The morning was hot! I sat on a park bench and filled a garbage bag full of stuff and sat that bag of goodies (plus the now empty suitcase) on the curb for garbage collection.  
I would make do with whatever fitted into my two carry-on's.  In under ten minutes the suitcase was carried off. 

I went to an out-of-the-way hostel near the edge of town which I imagined would have vacancies. They did. I was the sole guest. I told myself I'd take the weekend to exhale and regroup. It wasn't the first time I found myself stranded; but, thankfully, this time I have money. And I'm resourceful.  
Always look on the bright side of your life...especially when it's so fucking hard to do so.    
  

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ETN Buses are no longer the best (MEXICO)

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ETN used to be the best coach service in Mexico. Not anymore.

Competing bus lines have beefed up their infrastructure and become the way of most things 'global': cookie-cutter. But in this case, that's a good thing because, being a Third World nation, it's a step up for Mexico. What you or I may take for granted e.g., punctuality, clearly advertised prices, clean and clean-smelling interiors, stocked bathroom and, lately, wifi onboard, has gradually become the new norm for Mexican bus travel which, unlike, America, is still extremely popular. You'd think by it being so popular and with so many competing companies that service and amenities would already be the bee's knees but that's Mexico for you: if it's already like this, then that's the way it's supposed to be.

Primera Plus bus is on par with, if not better than, ETN and offers lower prices

For years ETN buses was ahead with big, comfortable reclining seats, complimentary snack lunches, clean His & Her toilets, personal entertainment (you plugged in the headphones IF you wanted to hear the movie/music), and, judging by the spotless collars and neckties, apparently higher standards for their operators. The tickets, naturally costed, more. But ETN is no more the most lujoso (luxurious) -- yet their prices remain the same. The drivers aren't the smartest in appearance and the provided service and comfort is not worth the extra hundreds of pesos they charge.


Primera Plus bus, for one, is on par with, if not better than, ETN - with an equally expansive list of destinations, on-board comforts - and, more importantly, Primera Plus offers lower prices! For example, a long trip from Mexico City-Puerto Vallarta (direct) via ETN costs $1,230 while the same trek via Primera Plus is $1025; Futurama charges about $1045. The lujo of the latter two companies is not beneath expensive ETN's. Neither the wi-fi nor the reading lights worked. Knowing this, barring a time-table and specific destination not served by any other company, I won't bother travelling on ETN. It's just not worth it.

For the bus drivers, customer service ain't part of their job descriptions; it's to drive the bus safely

Where all the companies still lack, however, is the establishment of rider rules or etiquette, and un-hindered communication with the driver. There are no announced or written reminders to refrain from disturbing fellow passengers with loud conversations, personal audio devices, objects in the aisle. Mexican parents even allow their brats to shout and run up and down the aisle. They certainly don't attempt to hush them. The only 'common-sense' activity noticeably absent is cigarette-smoking! Communication with the driver is hindered by a door which physically and visually separates him from us. Plus it opens out toward the driver so you can imagine how awkward that is. Thus, if it's too cold or hot - and it's most always too cold - or the volume from the overhead speakers is too loud or some passenger is being obnoxious, then, sadly - and frustratingly - you're shit out of luck. The operators also refuse to activate overhead reading lights because, naturally, who wants to read a book on a long ride?! For the bus drivers, customer service ain't part of their job descriptions; it's to drive the bus safely.

barring a specific destination not served by any other company, I won't bother travelling on ETN. It's just not worth it

Safety is important but so is having a stress-free environment. For us as well as the driver. 
  

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Stay Hotel (downtown LA)

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A while back I stayed in this "new" hotel called, with much brevity, Stay (technically it's Stay on Main). It's new in as much as it represents the remodelations of the Cecil Hotel next door and is aimed toward snaring young foreign travellers with its bunk-bed dorm rooms, bright ugly orange color schemes, and funky fashion conscious furnishings that strive for "Cool!" more than, say, "Elegant".


 %#@! hideous decor

Stay is still in the scary area of downtown L.A. and, in fact, not far from the infamous Skid Row. A little advice for backpackers coming from the downtown Greyhound bus terminal: walk hard and stay on 7th Street; but, otherwise, try to wait for the bus. And, do know, L.A.'s bus schedule leaves a lot to be desired.
This wannabe urban hotel requires credit cards in order to book rooms. I guess just in case some drunk fool tosses the ugly ass orange hand chair out the window. I don't like places that don't like cash.

L.A.'s bus schedule leaves a lot to be desired

Stay at Stay on Main if you must. 
If you mustn't, then don't. Might I suggest USA Hostels?

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Airport clothes through JFK (PICS)

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Yes, I really do dress this way when flying. I call it dressing thinly.

Can you believe our TSA still go through with a pat-down (I opt out of the X-Ray chamber) -- and, worse still, narrate their stupid movements step-by-step. C'mon, goobers, just pass the damn magnetic wand and back of the hands. The narration only consumes precious time! The simpleton at JFK airport was nice about it - while the one at Phoenix was visibly nervous. Good - and I know they are just making sure every 't' was crossed and 'i' dotted but, seriously, look at me: Where the fuck am I hiding anything?

Following stupid rules is dutiful but not productive. It reminds me of my gov't professor's description of communism. Laying railroad tracks on this side of town to be taken up and relayed on the other side of town technically constitutes construction, but, factually, no track ever remains and, of course, no trains ever come. How useful is it to pat down the legs of someone dressed in, say, a two-piece bikini? Painfully unimaginative to the point of making insanity look attractive.

everyone is looking this way



Sir, have you emptied your pockets...?

Sir, are you sure there's nothing in your pockets?



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Aeromexico's slow response

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In an untimely, but typical, fashion the Mexican airlines Aeromexico got back to me regarding my query about changing flight plans due to a death in the family.

Their reply: 

Thank you for contacting us.

Regarding to your question, I should let you know we are able to waive the penalty fee only for sickness or death of a direct relative, like parents, siblings and offspring, in order to do so, we need you to send the death certificate.

I will be waiting for your response.

Cordially,

XX----

Customer Relations Representative

My reply:

Thank you for finally replying -- a full week later!

I tried every means of contacting Aeromexico - email, telephone, direct counter service at the airport - in a speedy fashion and no one from the company could give me a satisfactory answer/solution to the problem. My grandmother's funeral is tomorrow, thank you very little; And there is nothing to be done about this flight ticket now.

You Mexicans talk a big game about la familia but when it comes to dealing with a corporation you are no better than the gringos you claim to be selfish capitalists. The only thing that matters is money and how much of it results in your profit. Well, fuck you. I will be very leery of flying with Aeromexico in the future. Price is important but customer relations is crucial. Your slow customer service ranks right down there with Oxxo and Farmacia Guadalajara. 

Sincerely

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La Petite Liege Burger Bistro (Vallarta)

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The best french fries in town, hands down, are made to order thick and crispy at La Petite Liege Burger Bistro. The name is French because Carlos "el peludo", owner and cook, picked up his skills whilst abroad in Brussels (he speaky French). And, yes, real good hamburgers round out the menu. That's it: just burgers and fries -- for now. 

Carlos flame-broils them over a grill, leaving the meat hot, rounded and juicy. But I'm a bigger fan of the french fries

He's right not to call them hamburgesas. I avoid Mexican hamburgers for the same reason I avoid Mexican China buffets: they lack a great deal, namely authenticity and deliciousness. I'm glad I tried these though. Carlos packs a decent amount of beef into his handmade patties and flame-broils them over a grill, leaving the meat hot, rounded and juicy. But I'm a bigger fan of the french fries.

I'm American. I know what a good ass burger and fries should taste like, and I know how to make a hamburger; but those fries of his! My, my, my.....
For one thing, they have the skin intact and are cut thick by this hand-pressed slicer. Then deep-fried to a brown crunchiness and tossed with a pinch of salt. Literally. I top mine off with ground black pepper and drizzle over this particular green chili soy sauce concoction he has. I eat these fries almost every day and, yet - damn! - my beach body doesn't go away. Booyah!

I eat french fries every day and still look great. 

Don't hate on it. Holla!

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